Panamericana

16.11.08

Rosarito – La Fonda

35km

Hola!

When we started around 7 am it was already very windy and warm. We tried to find a place to eat breakfast but they weren‘ t open. After a while we found a Hotel that offered breakfast. They had an american menu and american prizes but we didn‘ t want to waste more time looking for another place. My bacon didn‘ t taste too good but the pancakes where great.

It was already 9:15am when we hit the road again – too late when in this weather conditions. There wasn‘ t much traffic on the hilly road which had 2 lanes in each direction most of the time. We cycled right next to the Pacific and had some awesome views and even saw some whales.

It was very interesting to watch the waves coming from two directions at the same time, I never saw that before. The temperature rose up to 34 degrees C in the shade – but there was no shade most of the time!

When we arrived in La Fonda we only wanted to make a bathroom-break and buy something to drink. Then we found out that there wasn‘ t much between there and Ensenada (at least nothing affordable). It was only 12:30 pm and we wanted to go on for a while, but the wind was so strong that we couldn‘ t make it to Ensenada. Finally the five of us took a big room with four beds and a great balcony with an unbelievable view of the ocean. I never thought that I would stay at a place like this – for only 10 $ per person!

We relaxed for a while and enjoyed the half day off. Later Uli and I took a short bath in the ocean. It was cold but very refreshing! For dinner we walked down to the restaurant of the motel and were surprised when we got a bean soup, a salad and even a “mexican coffee” (coffee with kahlua) for desert together with the meal we ordered. It was a touristy place that seemed as if it was made for US-weekend-travellers, but they had good food.

Now we are all back at our room, writing our journals and learning spanish. It makes it a lot easier that Vera speaks good spanish, my spanish is still … let‘ s not talk about it!

Take care,

Anja

15.11.08

 San Diego – Rosalita

58 km,

Uli, Vera and I left the Youth Hostel in San Diego at 8 am. At 8:30 am we met Sebastien and Sara and cycled together towards the mexican border. We stopped at Wal-Mart to stock up some last supplies – just in case;-). When we arrived at the border we followed the bikepath which took us to the crossing for pedestriens where our bikes didn‘ t fit through the „turning-gate“. Then we took the freeway and crossed the border together with the cars. Noone really cared and we had to cycle back a bit to get our tourist-card. We are allowed to stay in Mexico for 180 days. We didn‘ t get a stemp in our passport, though.

After almost 2 hours we were on our bikes again and cycled through Tijuana. The roads were very busy but the drivers were careful and waved and honked at us a lot. After a long climb we enjoyed a great downhill-ride to Rosalita where we decided to end the day. We found a motel which cost 9 $ for each of us. After a refreshing shower we went to the taqueria next door and ate all different kinds of mexican food: mulas, tacos, burritos, quesadillas… Tasty food at the end of an exciting day!

Anja

14.11.08

San Diego

Two days ago I arrived here in San Diego, by train. It was a great surprise that Uli and Vera picked me up at the Amtrak-Station. Together we cycled to the Youth Hostel where I checked into a 10-bed-room for 3 nights (I want my tent!!!). Yesterday we cycled to an outdoor store and then I went to a bikeshop to let a „specialist“ take a  look at my bike since I was worried because of all those broken spokes lately. The guys at the bikeshop where great but unfortunately they told me that I needed a new rim (with new spokes of course). Well, I just hope that it‘ ll work!!!

Today I cycled 16km across San Diego, through a canyon, to get to REI, another outdoor-store. There I bought a new pair of long pants, a shirt, a water-filter and some other things. Later I stopped at the bookshop to get some maps and books about Mexico and Middle America. Then Vera, Uli and me had dinner at a Thai-Reataurant. The food was ok, but the Thai-Food I had in San Francisco was a lot better.

Tomorrow is the big day, we‘ ll meet Sara and Sébastien, a french couple, a few blocks away from the Youth Hostel at 8:30am and then we‘ ll cycle to Mexico together. We are all pretty excited.

 I spent almost 4 month in the US now. I had a great time but I  think I‘ m ready to go. Later I might write more about it, maybe a short summary. But now I‘ m looking forward to cycling in Mexico. I‘ m curious, don‘ t really know what to expect and I don‘ t speak any spanish, yet. It‘ s gonna be an interesting time!!!

Last time from the US,

Anja

11.11.08

Morro Bay SP – San Luis Obisbo

40km, total

After an oatmeal and coffee breakfast I replaced my broken spoke and hoped that it would hold for a while. Instead of taking the short way out of the State Park I circled around it what made me have to climb a small hill for starters;-). I didn‘ t do it on purpose though, I just couldn‘ t find the other way. It was a nice ride that took me through Los Osos, away from the busy Highway. At 11:20 am I already reached San Luis Obispo.

At the Starbucks I enjoyed a Java Chip Frappucino and checked my e-mails. I was very surprised when I read an e-mail from Uli, one of the two german cyclists I met in Oregon and who are going south as well. They will leave San Diego to cross the border to Mexico on saturday. I expected them to be cycling down the Baja already;-). They are still waiting for 2 other cyclists to join them and asked me if I would make it. It wasn‘ t an easy decision, but I ended up staying in San Luis Obispo and purchasing a ticket for the Amtrak Surfliner for tomorrow, wednesday. The Surfliner is a train that leaves in San Luis Obispo at 6:45am and goes all the way south to San Diego where it arrives after about 8 ½ hours. The train has a bike-rack and it isn‘ t necessary to box the bike.

I guess there are 2 ways to look at it: 1) I‘ m not cycling all the way, that‘ s cheating! 2) It‘ s a pretty smart idea to cross the border and cycle through Tijuana together with other cyclists and not alone. I decided to stick with the latter.

On my way back from the Amtrak Station I cycled through Downtown San Luis Obispo. It’s too bad that I missed the Farmer‘ s Market which takes place every Thursday. It‘ s right downtown, they close down the streets and there’s a lot going on. I bought a map of Baja California and 2 books since I didn‘ t know if I can get english books in Mexico – and since I don‘ t even speak spanish, yet, I won‘ t be able to read spanish book for quite a while;-).

09.11.08

Lucia – San Simeon SP

64 km, total 4211,3  km

Already at 4:30am the night was over. I packed my stuff together and loaded my bike in the dark. Then I had to wait until 6 am to get on the road, because it wasn‘ t light enough before. It was a great feeling to cycle that early. There was hardly any traffic and I took my time. At 10 am I reached Ragged Point, a very beautiful spot at the coast. There I met Erwin, a 74 year old guy from Bavaria. He flew into Mexiko-City travels around by public transportation to escape the german winter. He‘ s on his way south now and wants to go to Columbia. He had some interesting stories to tell. Then I met 3 cyclists from San Luis Obispo who where out for a few days.

After a 2 hour long break I was on my bike again and enjoyed an awesome tailwind. Near San Simeon I stopped to watch the Elephant Seals at the beach. There are so many of them an they are a real tourist attraction. Only a few miles later I decided to stop at the San Simeon State Park for the day. That was the cheapest campground so far – only 2 $.

At the hiker-biker site I met Leroy, a „different“ guy who had a lot to tell. He invited me to have a piece of grilled chicken and some potatoe-salad. After dinner I walked over to the beach and got to watch another beautiful sunset. Later I sat at the campfire with Leroy for a while before I crawled into my tent early. I was very tired after the almost sleepless night yesterday.

08.11.08

Monterey – Lucia

102 km, total 4147,3 km

I left the campground at 9:15am. The day started with a hard climb at the Skyline Drive which was followed by a great downhill-ride. Near Carmel I stopped to get a coffee and some bananas. It was a very gray day and the world-famous coast along Big Sur looked kind of rough. In the afternoon it started to rain for about an hour. 

According to my map I was pretty close to the Linekin SP where I wanted to stay when it was getting dark – but it wasn‘ t there. After passing the town of Lucia I finally reached the park – and it was closed for the season. I didn‘ t know how far it was to the next campground, it was dark and started to rain again. That‘ s why I decided to pitch my tent behind a bulldozer at the side of the road. Hiding behind those big tires the cars could‘ t see me. Nevertheless, it was a not so good night. It was windy, it rained once in a while and I woke up with every passing car. But at least that means that I must have fallen asleep sometime.

20km, total 4045,3km 

07.11.08

Caleb tried to replace my broken spoke but his tool was the wrong size. So I had to go to the bikeshop again. Since it didn‘ t ‚till 10am I went to the grocery store first, then had a coffee at „It‘ s a grind!“ and went to the post office to send some things to Germany. There a woman from Salina was asked me many questions about my trip and invited me to stay at her house at night. After I got my bike fixed I felt like it was too late to get started. I cycled around Monterey, checked out the Cannery Row, watched some seals and Pelicans in the bay and strolled along Fisherman‘ s Wharf where I ate some tasty garlic bread.  I met Caleb and ? again who were hoping to get a ride to LA.

Back at the campground I talked to 2 homeless guys who camped there, too. They always stay 3 nights at the campground, then they have to leave for one night and come back after that. Sometimes, when I meet people on loaded bicycles it‘ s hard to tell if they are travellers or homeless.

After dark 4 cyclists arrived but they camped next to the hiker/biker site because they where accompanied by someone in a car. Like usual I hit the sack early – about 10 hours of sleep every night, I love it!!!

06.11.08

Santa Cruz – Monterey

80km, total 4025,3km

As usual my day started kind of slow. Since Margaret didn‘ t feel like cycling she explained me how to get back on the Pacific Coast Bike Route. At 10:45am I said goodbye and after a coffee and donut stop I was on my way again. The route took me close along the coast where I stopped for a while to watch some surfers trying to catch the waves. Later on I cycled through many fields with strawberries, artichokes and brussel sprouts and saw many hispanic farmworkers. Once in a while I caught a glimps of the Monterey Bay.

The strawberries smelled so good that I stopped at a roadside fruit stand to buy some. While I sat there and ate my strawberries I saw two cyclisist passing by.

A few km passed Castroville a bikepath began which was supposed to lead me all the way to Monterey. In Seaside the bikepath disappeared – I don‘ t know if I missed a turn or what happened. So I just stayed on the road and after a while I was back on the trail. I stopped at Fisherman’s Wharf in Monterey and a cyclist explained how I could get to the Veteran’s Memorial Park where the campground is at. It was already getting dark when I climbed the hill to the campground.

The two cyclists who passed me earlier arrived almost at the same time. Caleb and ? started in Oregon. I pitched my tent for the first time after 18 (!!!!!!!) nights. I‘ m back the world of picknick-tables, headlamps and raccoons. There is a warning at this campground which says that there are many raccoons out here, that they are very aggressive and NOT afraid of humans. I‘ m really looking forward to this night!

From this campground you can actually hear the sealions down at the bay – unfortunately you can hear the police-cars, too.

Tomorrow I have to find a bikeshop because I have another broken spoke:-(. It was a great cycling day in mostly flat terrain. The sun was shining the whole day and it was around 18 degrees C warm, great temperature for cycling.

It‘ s only 7:50pm, I guess I‘ ll read for a while and then I‘ ll try to sleep – back in the real world;-)

Have a good one,

Anja

Around 8am I woke up and couldn‘ t make up my mind if I should move on south or stay a day in Santa Cruz. After a scrambled egg and toast breakfast I decided to stay another night. Margaret had an appointment downtown at noon, so I went their with her and she showed me the way to the post office and to the bike shop. In front of the bike shop I met Jill, another cyclist. She just boxed her bike and was getting ready to get on the bus to LA. She started her biketrip in Portland together with two friends but it didn‘ t work out too good – so she decided to end the trip in Santa Cruz, go to LA to work for a while and plan another trip. We had some pizza for lunch and I helped her to bring her stuff to the busstation. It was nice talking to her and I‘ ll give her a call when I‘ m in the LA area.

Later I cycled down to the beach where I was getting a bit jealous when I saw some people play Beach-Volleyball! (Hey ihr Vollies, I‘ m thinking about you at least every Tuesday!!!) Then I met Margaret again in town, we had a coffee and cycled back to her appartment where Cassie was already waiting to go for a walk.

Now I‘ m sitting here, updating my journal while Margaret is at a Hip Hop concert. Tomorrow I‘ ll be on the road again, cycling to Monterey.

Take care,

Anja

04.11.08

Pacifica – Santa Cruz

108,8km, total 3945,3 km

Around 10am I left the motel – the sun was shining again!!! After a few miles the part of HWY 1 which is called Devil‘ s Slide began. It‘ s a narrow, busy road which has a very small or no shoulder at all. I read about it and other cyclist described it as very scary – that‘ s why I really wasn‘ t looking forward to getting there. Actually it wasn‘ t that bad when I cycled there because the traffic wasn‘ t too heavy. Except for a few cars they were giving me a lot of room and waited ‚till they could pass me safely. There‘ s some construction going on because a tunnel is being build.

After the climb it was an easy ride into Half Moon Bay where I had lunch at Mc Donald‘ s. I stayed there for almost an hour ‚cause I had a great conversation with th guy who was sitting next to me. There was a nice tailwind which helped me a lot. There were some climbs but overall it was an easy and beautiful ride to Santa Cruise.

At the City Line I called Margaret, the cyclist I met 2 weeks earlier in Northern California. She offered me to crash on her couch what I was very happy about. She gave me directions to her appartment. Unfortunately it‘ s starting to get dark very early now, it was dark when I got there at 5:45pm. It was really good to see her again. She cycled from Portland, Oregon, to Santa Cruz where she‘ s going to school. After taking a hot shower we had dinner at a small taqueria – the burrito was really good. Later we cycled across town to visit her friends at the place she lived before. At that time we got to know that Obama would be the next president of the US!!! It was very interesting to see the more than happy reactions of Margaret and her friends. Everybody was shouting and yelling, they were hugging each other and making phone-calls to their families and friends! Then we cycled to the house where she‘ ll move in in a few weeks to watch Obamas speech on TV. Everybody was in a great mood and about 10 college-kids were glued to the TV – listening to the first speech of their new president. I was very happy to be right there at this moving historical moment!