Archive for März, 2009

Cruising along…

Dienstag, März 31st, 2009


Belize City to San Ignacio

On my own again. Max left yesterday and Wayne is gonna stay another day in Belize City. I got up a bit after 6, took a shower but didn‘ t really get moving. The coffe- and burrito-place across the street opened at 7, so I had breakfsat there. Unfortunately accompanied by that annoying australien moto-biker. He just talked and talked and talked again.

I sat on my bike at 8 am, 29 degrees C! Cycling out of the city was ok, but I missed one turn because I‘ ve been looking at all the people on the road instead of paying attention to the road-signs.

The wind was good and the kilometers flew by. At least during the first half of the day. I met the japanese cyclist whose name I forgot again. We passed each other a few times and had several breaks together. For lunch I ate fried chicken with rice, beans and coleslaw. It was pretty good but way too much!

The second part of the day was a bit more hilly, but the real problem was the heat. At 5pm we arrived in San Ignacio. ? Wanted to cycle the next 10km to the CG while I looked for a place to stay and tried – without success – to find a bikeshop.

The room in the guesthouse is ok for 20 BD, best about it is the balcony, though. I sat there for a while and waited for the air to cool off. But you need a lot of patience for that…


Montag, März 30th, 2009


Day off in Belize City

What a bed night! It was so hot and I hardly slept at all. The board of wood under my bed on which my mattress was placed was broken (I didn‘ t do it!!!). So my mattress was bent and it was even hotter. Max got up at 5am and left a bit later. I couldn‘ t sleep anymore and got up at 6am, took a shower and sat at the veranda in front of the guesthouse. A moto-biker from Australia talked to me constantly in his strong australien accent. He told me all the things I didn‘ t wanna know, not at 6 am, not before breakfast and not in that dialect. He didn‘ t even try to pronounce the names of cities in Central or South America in a correct way. I‘ m not saying here that my spanish is any good – and my english isn‘ t perfect either – but I couldn‘ t stand that.

Belize City isn‘ t a nice place. Many beggers, self-announced tour-guides, many drug-use …

We walked to a bikeshop where they didn‘ t have any tubes for me. The sight-seeing was pretty short and not very entertaining. Burritos for breakfast, luch and dinner and quit a few beers. Some time at the internet-café, reading, relaxing.

That was Belize City.



Sonntag, März 29th, 2009


Crooked Tree to Belize City

… that was our plan. So we got up at 5 am (yes!!!). I got to see hardly any birds, but the sunrise (check out my pics) and the cool and fresh air in the early morning were definitely worth it. It was so nice to walk around without sweating and I enjoyed the quietness of a new day.

We decided not to make a rest day in Crooked Tree, cause there was no CG with hammocks, a fridge full of cool beer next to the Lake, ….

There was really nothing to do, so we left around 9am (after not getting the breakfast we were hoping for) and headed towards Belize City. I was glad that there was still air in my tire – but only till the end of the dirt-road. Trying to pump it up again the valve broke of just by unscrewing it … Max gave me one of his spare tubes and helped me to change the tube. I put some duct-tape around the rim cause I keep getting punctures on the inside – but can‘ t find anything sharp there. I felt so bad about taking the tube from Max, so unprepared … But I can‘ t change it anymore.

We stopped for a snack and a second breakfast beer at a small restaurant along the road. There we met the japanes cyclist again who also stopped for a cold drink. The wind was on our back today and we made good speed. We made another soda-break about 20 km before Belize City. It was sunday today and everybody seemed to come to the store (by bike, car, foot) to do only one thing – buy beer. When we were inside the store, the cashier came and showed us where the beers were!!! No thanks, we didn‘ t want any.

In Belize City we cycled through some one-way-streets – in the wrong direction – and everybody who was out there told us that we were going the wrong way!

We found a tiny, hot 3-bed-room in a guest-house that had at least a nice Veranda and we could lock the bikes in the backyard.

Beer and chinese-food for dinner, another beer at the veranda and going to bed early. In a tent it‘ s ok to be in bed shortly after dark, but laying in a sticky room around 8:30pm somehow just doesn‘ t feel right!

Belize – keep cool

Samstag, März 28th, 2009


Chetumal (MEX) to Crooked Tree (Belize)

After 4 ½ months it was time to leave Mexico. We left Chetumal at 7am and were soon at the border to Belize. No problems at the border. I didn‘ t get a stamp in my passport when I arrived in Mexico, but now I got one. Another stamp for entering Belize, and there we were.

In the country where the motto is “Keep cool”. Good idea to keep cool, it‘ s hot enough already! After 80km we reached Orange Walk – and I had a flat tire again. While Max and Wayne looked for a bikeshop and had dinner in town I changed my tube under the looks and comments of about 10 Belizeans who surrounded me quickly. Great, a situation I don‘ t like at all – but keep cool!

Ok, done. Though I checked the tire and the rim I had another flat 100 m down the road. The comments of the locals started to annoy me big time. But it got even better. I ripped the valve out of my spare tube. Then fixed the other one and met the guys in the park a long time later. I bought a tube at the bikeshop, with a bigger valve but I found out that I can take a piece out of my rim so that it should fit. We bought some groceries and were at 4pm on our way again. About 40 more km to go to Crooked Tree.

We wanted to get there before dark and pushed it a bit. I couldn‘ t keep up with the guys – and had another flat after 40km at the junction to Crooked Tree. No problem, just got out my spare tube – but it didn‘ t fit!!! There was some stupid rubber around it and it was too big! So I put another patch on my tube and cycled the last 6 km down a dirt road in the dark. It was more by accident that I found the place where Wayne and Max where. The Campground didn‘ t exist anymore but the owner of the Bird Eye View Lodge showed us a place next to a house that‘ s just being build where we could camp. Only their bikes where there when I got there, they had gone to a nearby restaurant. So I had the pleasure to talk to a local who worked there – he told me his whole life in 40 minutes, about being in prison, having changed, living an honest life now, washing his own cloths, growing his own vegetables … I know, you don‘ t wanna know – but I didn‘ t wanna know it, either. Don‘ t get me wrong here, I enjoy talking to the locals – and in Belize it‘ s suddenly possible again cause almost everybody speaks english. But after 128 km in the heat, some flat tires and cycling down a dirt road in the dark all I really wanted was to enjoy the beer that I could luckily buy at the Lodge – though it was overprized.

Finally Max and Wayne came back, the guy went home, I drank another beer, pitched my tent and went to sleep.


Relaxing – and sweating – in Chetumal

Freitag, März 27th, 2009


Chetumal – rest day

Chetumal, what a city. Windy, hot, humid and nobody seems to be friendly around here.

Just did my laundry, tried to remember what the last week was about to write my blog (but I was too lazy to make any notes, so I probably forgot a few things) and didn‘ t do much else. Thought I might go into the only museum in Chetumal – but managed to stop just in time ;-). It‘ s just too hot!

I‘ m starting to realize that today is probably my last day in Mexico after almost 4 ½ months!

Not much more to say, I‘ m just looking forward to Belize, Guatemala, Honduras …

Headwind again…

Donnerstag, März 26th, 2009


Nicolas Bravo to Chetumal

73,2km, 4h11min, Ø 17,4 km/h, 224hm


We left Nicolas Bravo at 7 am, it were about 25 degrees C. Almost no wind, but it increased within the following hours – and was of course a headwind again.

It was mostly flat today. At 9 am we already made 38km – what a great feeling! At a small abarrotes where I bought a coke, the owners where just feeding a “Bambi” with a bottle of milk! Interesting type of a pet;-).

The next 15km I cycled together with Max and Wayne, drafting a bit made it a lot easier, but on one of those short climbs I just couldn t keep up with them and cycled the last 17km alone.

It was only 11:15am when I saw them again, after 70km, at a Plaza in Chetumal on the main road where they where waiting.

It took us a while to find a hotel we liked – it would have been nice to have wi-fi for the rest-day tomorrow, but those hotels with wi-fi were twice as expensive as the hotel without wi-fi – and had only 2 beds. So we finally checked into a hotel without wi-fi. Three beds in a large room.

I didn t do much this afternoon. Resting for a while, drinking a coffee and walking around town with Wayne. There‘ s not much to see here, even the water of the Carribean Sea was gray-brown, probably due to the wind, and not very inviting.

Later, on our way to the pizzaria, we met another cyclist who was searching for a hotel. He is from Japan, started in Utah and is on his way to Argentina.

Dinner tonight was my most expansive meal in Mexico: 200 Pesos for Pizza and 2 beers!!! I guess Max has to tell me some tipps for bush-camping now ;-).

Flat road, headwind and heat…

Mittwoch, März 25th, 2009


Becan to Nicolas Bravo

59,6 km, 3h31min, Ø 15,4 km/h, 366 hm


After a warm but good night we got up at 6:30am. Breakfast, packing, the usual morning-routine. At 7:45am we stood in front of the still locked gate of the Maya ruins of Becan. We pushed our bikes around the gate but were told a few minutes later that we had to wait until 8 am. We payed the 41 Pesos entrance fee and walked around the ruins for a while – just in time to stay ahead of a whole bus-load of Germans. The ruins were pretty nice and the site a lot bigger than I expected it.

Back on the bikes we made a short stop at the abarrotes where be camped last night, bought some cold drinks (already 28 degrees C) and try to get some motivation to fight the headwind that was already blowing again.

Though it was a long day for me yesterday my legs felt ok and cycling wasn‘ t as hard as expected … at least for the first 35 km. At a military checkpoint I had to open my panniers and show what‘ s in there. Some questions later – I understood only half of it – I was on my way again. What do they think a cyclists carries in her/his bags???

The wind was picking up around noon and cycling became a lot harder for me. Rolling hills the whole day, but with that wind there wasn‘ t much that was rolling;-).

Max and Wayne were quite a bit ahead of me and had already finished their lunch when I reached Nicolas Bravo. After discussing our options for the night we ended up staying at a “hotel”. The rooms are clean and simple – a bed and a light-bulb. Outdoor toilets and a bucket-bath. But there‘ s really nothing else I need.

Wayne and I had dinner at a small place across the street. We both got ½ deep-fried chicken. There was so much fat around it that it was hard to find the real meat! It was actually pretty bad, but they were just so proud when they served it! A can of beer helped…

My longest day so far ;-)

Dienstag, März 24th, 2009


Escárcega – Becan

147,9 km, 8:37h, Ø 17,1 km/h, 955 hm


This morning I decided not to cycle together with Wayne and Max because I wanted to go at my own speed. So I left a while after them but we met again later on the road. There was a headwind all day and it was pretty hot. During the day I drank about 2,5 l of green-ice.tea, 4 l of soda and 4 l of water! I was really glad that there were so many small places along the road where I could buy cold drinks. The climbs today were neither long nor steep, but somehow neverending. It was already dark when I arrived in Becan, so the last hour of cycling wasn‘ t much fun. The CG there didn‘ t exist anymore, but Max already talked to the owner of a small store and he said we could camp in or behind his garage. This was my longest day on this trip so far.

Sign of Life

Montag, März 23rd, 2009

Hi guys!

Just a short note here to let you know that everything is fine. The last 5 days I cycled together with Max from Austria and Wayne from Australia. We heard many stories (we don t know how many of ‚em are true) about the route between San Cristobal and Palenque being king of dangerous. That‘ s why we decided to cycle there together and everything went well. The first 2 days were very hilly, the last couple of days it was mostly flat – something we all didn‘ t experience for a while.

It seems as if I‘ m actually on my way to Belize now – so that decision is made. It‘ s only about 300 km to Belize, so  my last days in Mexico are counted!

I‘ ll write more once I get to Chetumal which is about 275km away from here.

CU Anja

It‘ s all flat!

Montag, März 23rd, 2009


El Aguacatel – Escárcega

109,1 km, 5:35h, Ø 19,5 km/h, 294hm


Another flat day, not much to see on the side of the road. We checked into a hotel in Escárcega already at 3pm. Time went by quickly though – internet, grocery store and dinner.