Panamericana

21.03.09

Otulum – Palenque

36,3km, 2:30h, Ø14,4 km/h, 503 hm

A short walk to the small waterfall of the owner of the CG we stayed. After a few km on the bike we cycled down to the Misol-Ha Waterfall. There were people blocking the road, but they opened it for us and didn‘ t even charge us. We were the only people down at the waterfall which was pretty nice.

Unfortunately the restaurant was out of service, due to some problems they are having there. On our way back up we saw that a car was stopped and wasn‘ t allowed to go down to the fall, so we werde really lucky.

A few km before Palenque I had another flat tire, great! Max helped me to change the tube and soon we were on our way again. Unfortunately I think I lost my “buff” there, too bad.

Breakfast, internet and grocery-shopping in the town of Palenque, then we cycled the last 7 km to a CG 2 km before the ruins. We pitched our tents there and then cycled – without luggage – to the ruins.

On my way back I met the couple from Belgium again who I met in Oaxaca a few weeks ago. They came to the CG to have dinner, so I joined them for a snack and a cold beer.

20.03.09

Okosingo – Otulum

116,2km, 7:39h, Ø14,4 km/h, 1598 hm

Long and hilly cycling day. We made a side-trip to the Agua-Azul waterfalls which was 4km downhill. After 2 1/2h km I got a flat tire and pushed my bike down there because Max and Wayne were waiting down there. It wasn‘ t such a smart idea because this way tube got a really big hole;-(.

Changed my tube while waiting for lunch at a restaurant. After taking a look at the waterfall we had to cycle up those 4 km again.

The way to our planned stop for the night turned out to be more than 10km longer and a lot more hilly as expected. It was almost dark by the time I saw Max waiting for me at the side of the road. I was pretty happy when he told me that there‘ s a place to camp just of the road.

A couple who already passed us in their car and offered us some empanadas out of the window came over and offered us some cold beer and empanadas! What a treat after a – for me – very hard day.

The owners of the Campground made us scrambled eggs and tortillas for dinner, so we didn‘ t even have to cook. It was the first time that I pitched my tent since mid-december!

19.03.09

San Cristobal – Okosingo

99,5km, 6h25min, Ø 15,4km/h, 1240hm

I cycled together with Mac an Wayne today. There were some long climbs and I was glad when we finally reached Okosingo. People along the way were friendly, even the woman who are usually more reserved waved a lot and laughed happily by the sight of our bikes.

18.03.09

I spent a few hours at a café with wi-fi this morning and updated my blog. For lunch Wayne, Max and me went to a Falaffel-Place and decided to leave San Cristobal together tomorrow. Seth might join us as well but he doesn‘ t really know yet.

I didn‘ t expect things to develop so fast, thought I would stay here for a few more days. They are all cycling faster as I am and I hope that I won‘ t slow them down too much.

Guess I better go to bed now because we wanna leave tomorrow at 7:30am. When did I leave that early the last time???

Good night

Anja

17.03.09

A lazy day today, sitting at the plaza, reading, watching people.

Max, Wayne, Seth and me (all cyclists) spent the evening together at a café, talking about our trips so far and our further routes.

16.03.09

Laura, Ann and I had breakfast together before they made their way back to Chiapa de Corzo.

I was so surprised when I got an e-mail at night that she‘ s back in San Cristobal! So we went to a tiny movie-theater and watched a movie about Chiapas. After that we went to a Café where I had drank a Bailey‘ s. It tasted so good but I had to be careful not to choke because there was just so little in the glass;-)

15.03.09

The plan was to cycle from Tuxtla to Chiapa de Corzo to visit Laura there. Laura is a friend I met in Guadalajara around New Years. She came to Mexico on a sail-boat, taught english for a few months in Chiapa de Corzo and is now waiting for her brothers to pick her up in their car to drive through Central America and finally end up in Columbia! However, she send me an e-mail telling that she d be in San Cristobal for a couple of days with her friend Ann.

So I took a bus to San Cristobal – and missed my probably longest and hardest climb (1800hm in 50km). I enjoyed the view from the bus, felt a bit like a wimp – but … does it really matter?

In San Cristobal a fresh breeze was blowing – and I realized that I wasn‘ t sweating!!! It felt so good to be in a cooler place! I cycled around for a while and then found the hostel where Max, another cyclist, said he was staying. It took a while and some more mails to finally meet Laura and Ann. It was so good to seeing her again! We had a good breakfast (eggs and beans and cheese) and since it was already noon I ordered some Tacos as well ;-).

We had a great time and I‘ m glad that I got a chance to see her again before she left on her road-trip.

14.03.09

Teuantepec – Juchitan (bike)

Juchitan – Tuxtla (bus)

30 km of flat riding! How nice is that!!!

When I reached Juchitan it was only 10 am. My plan was to make it a short day and then rest and relax for the rest of the day. I cycled around town, but didn‘ t really like it. I didn‘ t feel dangerous there or anything, I just didn‘ t like it. Anyway, I asked for a room at a big (and a bit more expensive) hotel. But before I got a chance to ask the people who worked there ignored me for a few minutes. That already mad me want to leave again. I asked anyway, but they had no vacancy. I couldn‘ t really believe it but felt good when I walked out there again. Just around the corner I found a restaurant where I could sit outside and see my bike. When I ate my Tlayuda which did have way too much cheese and hardly any meat in it, I saw the busterminal across the street.

And before I knew it I had already bought a ticket to Tuxtla!!! What did I do? I didn‘ t even think, I just did it. Then I had to kill 5 hours until the bus left.

In the bus I saw that I missed out on some nice scenery – but also some long climbs. Too bad 😉

At 8:30pm I arrived in Tuxtla. It was already dark and so I was glad to find a hotel just a few hundred meters down the road. Clean, quiet, water, coffeemaker and TV in the room!

I didn‘ t eat anything since the Tlayuda in the morning but didn‘ t want to ride back up to the busterminal where I saw a BK, because about 5 dogs chased me on my way down to the hotel. It‘ s very likely though that they wouldn‘ t even recognize me without my bike. But some cookies will have to do it for now…

Anja

12.03.09

El Camaron – Magdalena Tequisistlan

74,9 km, 5:54h, Ø 12,6 km/h, 1125hm

When I left El Camaron at 8 am the temperature was already 28 degrees C. It seemded as if the climbing never ended. In the first 2 1/2h I only cycled 15km and climbed 400 hm. And it was getting hotter. A 10km long downhill ride brought me into a small town where I grabbed a cold coke . A few minutes later I was on my way again. The next 25 km were pretty much all uphill – at least that‘ s how I remember it. I didn‘ t expect that – and I‘ n not used to the het yet – and don‘ t know if I ever will! The last 10 km of that climb were a mix of pushing my bike uphill and cycling at about 4 km/h. It wasn‘ t that steep, the grade was ok, but I just couldn‘ t do it … Then the wind started to increase.

At times I only wanted to kick my bike, sit down at the side of the road and cry. But then there was suddenly another town, after 50km and 1000hm. Another coke and sitting in the shade for a while. I wasn‘ t hungry at all, it was too and couldn‘ t eat anything. Even thinking about food made me feel like I had to throw up.

A nice downhill ride and a sprite (yes, I am drinking water as well!!!) in another town. It was 3 pm and I made 70 km so far. Should I try to make it to Teuantepec? In the condition (physically and mentally)I was in it was even stupid to only think about it! The guy who lay in the hammock in front of the store told me that there ws a hotel just down the road. I‘ m glad the heat didn‘ t totally burn my mind and I found myself a few minutes later cycling down the road into a town called Magdalena Tequisistlan which is 2km off the main road. Taxi-drivers waved and honked at me, people on the side of the road stopped and starred at me. I was probably the only gringo in town. As usual a smile from me made a big difference – and many people smiled back at me.

I checked into a pretty nice and clean hotel and took a shower to cool off. The fan in the room didn‘ t help too much and soon I was sweating again. A while later I ate at the hotel-restaurant. It was the best meal I had for a while – and it was a big portion. I had Milanesa de res (Schnitzel!!!) with rice, beans, salad and about 8 hot and tasty tortillas. It was so good!!!

I bought some bananas, water and gatorade and spent some time at the internet-café. When I walked in there I tried to figure out who worked there – but I couldn‘ t. Then a maybe only 10-year-old girl walked over to me and showed me the computer I could use.

Back at the hotel I took another shower and watched some TV.